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I wake up and the only thing between me and the ground is my paco pad and a cotton sheet. The wind from last night was blasting me with sand and it has permeated my pillowcase, hair and skin. This is life now. I open my eyes and a sense of awe and relief overcomes me, I'm still here. It is day 19 of our 24 day rafting trip through the heart of the Grand Canyon. The first bit of sunlight touches the top of the canyon walls. The familiar roar of the river tempts me to close my eyes...

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